Surfer+of+the+Century+The+LIfe+of+Duke+Kahanamoku

Surfer of the Century: The Life of Duke Kahanamoku by Ellie Crowe           
 * It's a sport that is in a class by itself.
 * Such huge ones occurred only on extraordinary occasions, the result of underwater earthquakes or volcanic eruptions.
 * Only one mastered them that day in 1917.
 * The Pacific Ocean was his backyard.
 * He had five brothers, three sisters, and more than thirty cousins with whom to play.
 * Wiggling like a little tadpole, he made his way back to the canoe.
 * The ocean was a second home to him, and he was happiest when he was swimming.
 * He had a natural talent, and he was determined to use it.
 * He wanted to win races.
 * He earned enough money to help pay his family's bills, and he had plenty of time to swim.
 * When he timed them, he was stunned.
 * I'd like to coach you.
 * It's a deal if you think I've got it.
 * They closed the agreement with a handshake and a smile.
 * He had tried earlier to join and had been refused membership even though he knew some of the members.
 * He was hurt but managed to shrug off the rejection.
 * He developed a huge, 16 foot, 114 pound one that handled well.
 * This was his big chance. He would compete against nationally ranked athletes from the mainland US.
 * On the day of the meet, excited spectators gathered at the wharves.
 * Heart thudding, he stood at the edge of the wharf.
 * BAM! The pistol shot rang out.
 * They were neck to neck until fierce with determination, he forged ahead.
 * Then they shouted that he had broken the world record!
 * Everyone wanted to touch him, be a part of his success.
 * For weeks reporters followed him around, taking his photo and trying to interview him.
 * The reporters found it difficult to get him to say much. He was too shy and humble to talk about himself.
 * Then bad news arrived. They refused to believe his times.
 * "What are you using for stopwatches?" "Alarm clocks?"
 * Thrilled by the news, he and his family huddled around the kitchen table.
 * Money was tight. They didn't know how they would pay for his trip.
 * Along with contributions from others, enough money was raised to send him on his trip.
 * This big city was very different from his island home.
 * They described him as a strange looking, dark skinned native from distant lands.
 * People stared at him. Restaurant waiters pretended not to see him.
 * When he got off the train, the icy winter wind bit through his thin suit coat.
 * Looking for a way to stay warm, he stuffed cardboard under his coat and kept it tightly buttoned.
 * Everyone laughed as the cardboard fell to the ground.
 * PHYSICAL CLUE-- piece of cardboard.
 * Pittsburgh was even colder than Chicago.
 * The waiter took one look at his dark skin and asked him to leave.
 * He downed his food as fast as he could.
 * Surrounded by the booing crowd, he looked down sadly at his big, cold feet.
 * He had always thought he could depend on his body, but this time it had failed him.
 * The crowd jeered, calling him a show off.
 * THe competition would be fierce, but he ached to test himself against these legendary athletes.
 * The sky was overcast and the water looked dark and cold.
 * Escaping to the top deck, he found a sheltered spot and sat talking with a new friend.
 * You can run, jump, throw things and carry the ball. You do everything.
 * Summers in Sweeden have almost 24 hours of daylight.
 * I'm- I'm sorr. I've been sleeping.
 * Silence fell on the crowd. He thought he would die.
 * Everything he had worked so hard for-- gone in an instant.
 * It seemed as though no one in the stadium breathed.
 * Adrenaline pumping through his body, he lined up with them.
 * Then from the corner of his eye he saw him coming up fast.
 * He was so impressed that he personally awarded him the gold medal and placed the wreath of victory on his head.
 * He tried to present a good image and live up to people's expectations.
 * The rough sea quickly pulled him and the ship in opposite directions.
 * He swam as hard as he could, but he couldn't make it back.
 * Thousands of supporters met the ship.
 * He had to peek over them to see the welcoming crowd.
 * He received offers to turn professional and be paid for competing.
 * While he trained he needed to earn a living. He didn't have many work skills.
 * Arriving in Sydney, he was surprised by the enthusiastic reception he received from the Australians.
 * He promised to do his best to please everybody.
 * He laughed when he read news reports abut his unusually large pedal extremities.
 * His sportsmanship and good nature won him many new fans.
 * For a finale, he invited a girl to sit on his shoulder.
 * When the US entered the war in 1917, he traveled throughout the mainland as a Red cross volunteer.
 * He was twenty eight when the war ended in 1918.
 * They took an oath to compete for the glory of the sport.
 * He was so popular that a chaperone was appointed to protect him from adoring fans.
 * H always performed with dignity but wished directors would sometimes cast him in roles that were not such stereotypes.
 * He accepted the second place silver medal with a gracious smile.
 * Suddenly a great wave curled forward and capsized the boat.
 * He saved eight people that day and his friends rescued four.
 * Saddened that they had not saved everyone, he hurried from the beach before he could be thanked and before news reporters arrived.
 * He moved back to his island home in 1930.
 * Twenty years earlier, as a teenager in Boston, she had fallen in love with his picture.
 * One of his brothers eventually introduced them, and it was love at first sight.
 * He welcomed politicians, celebrities, and other distinguished guests and officiated at countless events and celebrations.
 * He died on January 22, 1968 at the age of seventy seven.
 * He will always be remembered for his kindness and modesty, good sportsmanship, and love of life.
 * No matter what he did, he spread aloha.
 * I believe it and this is my creed.
 * He lived in Los Angeles and played small roles in movies.
 * He served as a sheriff and county.
 * His commemorative stamp was issued in 2002 by the United States Postal Service.